A glimpse into the architectural history of Baofenglong Mansion in China’s Tin Capital in Honghe Prefecture
“Well Baofenglong Mansion is supposed to be right up around the corner,” my girlfriend says as she analyzes the directions the navigational app, Gaode Maps (高德地图). Its just taken us to our destination: the last tin smelting site in Gejiu (个旧). We continue up ahead, driving up past multiple narrow allies. Finally, freshly painted cartoon paintings depicting the region’s mining history appear on a white, horizontal wall before us. The distinct mustard-yellow facade, a popular color reflecting the commonly seen French-style buildings built during France’s colonial expansion in Yunnan province suddenly appears around the corner. “I think we’ve finally arrived,” I say as we step out of the car, scanning for any resemblances to the grand mansion that I’ve seen online. A large gated entrance within a towering mustard-yellow wall stands before us. The place looks deserted, but we’ve arrived at the French mansion in China’s tin capital, Gejiu.
It’s lunchtime and the lofty-looking doors are sealed shut. A plaque with the name Baofenglong Shop (宝丰隆商号) hangs to the left of the main doors. Looking closer, some small text mentioning the site has been a national cultural protected relic since 2013 indicates we’ve arrived. I lean against the large doors forming a small gap, enough to get a glimpse of the large mansion ahead. It is also wide enough gap to try to grab the attention of somebody inside. Luckily, a security guard hasn’t left for lunch and after some very persuasive words from my girlfriend, grants us access to one of Yunnan’s most well-kept secret mansions.
What’s the Current Situation of the Secret Mansion in China’s Tin Capital?
These days Baofenglong Mansion, once the site of important tin-smelting furnaces and Baofenglong Trading Company remains barricaded behind thick doors. In 1951, Baofenglong Mansion was first reused as the site of Gejiu’s Third Detention Center. Later, it was turned into a drug rehabilitation center in 1989, before being deserted again in 2002. Since then, the historical site has been closed to the public, while undergoing minor restoration projects. It was officially closed for restoration work by the local government in 2017. No one knows when the project will officially be completed.
My girlfriend distracts the still very guarded security guard (who may be violating rules) with a plethora of questions. Grasping the opportunity, I slowly tiptoe off into the side areas to explore the unknown mansion in China’s tin capital.
Journey Through Gejiu’s Tin History and Yunnan Railroad Influence
Local Shiping businessman and mine owner Li Pin, began construction on the mansion in 1916. China was transitioning from the end of the Qing Dynasty and to the beginning of the Republican era. Covering over 7,714 sq. meters, Baofenglong Mansion was completed in 1926, a time period in which Gejiu’s tin industry was also beginning to take off. The mountainous city of Gejiu is said to have once been sitting over 900,000 tons of tin ore. This made Gejiu not only the largest tin ore deposit site in China, but among the largest in the world.
In 1936, Bisezhai (a train station along the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway in Mengzi) was connected to Gejiu’s train station by the Gebishi Railway. Gejiu instantly found itself the center of international attention. From global traders to migrants looking for work, everyone wanted a piece of the lucrative tin trade.
A majority of the buildings in the large complex are built of stone, with the tallest being the four-story French-style mansion. Apart from the mansion itself, the complex once housed a myriad of operational facilities and buildings. Among the most notable was the stone mill building.
Gejiu’s Essential Stone Mills and Smelting Sites
Walking into the stone-block framed entrance, viewers are greeted by two still well-preserved round stone grinding mills. Nearly a hundred years ago, these stone mills were once crushing tin ore in preparation to be cleansed and selected for the smelting of the tin ore. This final operation at the time was also completed within Baofenglong Mansion. The complex was once one of the few sites within the city of Gejiu that had furnaces readily available for smelting ore. This played a crucial factor in the businesses’s role within the city’s rapidly growing international tin trade at the time.
As a unique site that could grind, wash, and smelt tin ore, Baofenglong Mansion was also a storage center for finished tin ingots. These finished tin ingots were then later transferred along the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway and on to the world’s largest international markets.
Dongmenlou Stage and Chinese Designs
Within the grand complex’s grounds are a variety of buildings. This includes a three-story watchtower, the main gate building, a furnace room that included a chute for washing and selecting tin ore, the embroidery room, left-wing residences, a right-wing which was destroyed early on, and the French-style mansion. Today the embroidery room and left-wing residences have been mostly restored, giving visitors a clearer picture of what the complex looked like during the early to mid 1900’s.
After strolling through the stone mill building, I head over to the embroidery room. A set of stairs guide me up to the left-wing residences. Though wood was used to construct certain sections, most of Baofenglong complex was constructed with stone. Dongmenlou Stage, which sits on the second floor of the main gate entrance building is one of the sections built mostly from wood. The beautifully designed stage used to hold opera performances for wealthy families. The elaborate green and blue stage eaves, as well as intricate wooden seating still remain, showcasing the traditional Chinese style elements embodied within the complex’s past. Chinese landscape paintings, traditional symbols, and exquisite motifs have since been repainted on, bringing back life to the elaborate designs that have slowly deteriorated over the years.
With most areas still locked off, I went back down to the sprawling complex’s courtyard to take in the views. One can only imagine the energy of bustling trade and cultural exchange that occurred within the complex’s mighty stone walls.
French-Style Mansion and Future Research
Baofenglong Mansion, is a beautiful architectural example that embodies a blend of Western sophistication and Eastern elegance. Today, it still showcases many of its French aesthetics. Ornate imported French railings, detailed black and white floor tiles, and a vermillion-hued flat roof are still visible. Piles of bluestone slabs and crumbled concrete blocks lay scattered across the front entrance revealing there’s still much work to be completed. Walking up the stone steps, I take a quick peek inside the first level. Spacious rooms, imposing stone columns, a spiral staircase, and handcrafted wooden window frames, showcase the luxurious atmosphere that once swept the mansion.
My adventure through Baofenglong Mansion was cut short though. As I was about to head upstairs, the security guard beckons for me to come out. My girlfriend hints that the guard has had enough of her chatter. I reluctantly head back out towards the main gate entrance pondering when my next trip back will be. Today was just a quick-peek at the mansion of China’s tin capital, Gejiu. There will be another day to explore the historical beacon tucked away in the alleys of Gejiu, and to brush off the remaining dust concealing its history and legacy.
