An unforgettable escape exploring the Yuanyang Rice Terraces —where nature, color, and culture collide
Navigating through Chinese New Year traffic in Yuanyang County is a game of inches. License plates from Sichuan, Shanghai, and Guangdong pack the single ring road that loops around Yuanyang’s 1300 year old Hani Rice Terraces—a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in the southern part of Yunnan province.
It’s nearing dinner as I try to weave my way through the two lanes, maneuvering past tourists taking in the scenic sights around every corner. Hani villagers walk slowly alongside the road with a bundle of hefty lumber strapped tightly across their backs. Having taken a peek at my GPS and seeing a long, snaking line of red on the road ahead, I decided to take my chances through the village dirt roads. Exploring the Yuanyang Rice Terraces in the middle of the Spring Festival holiday season, while getting a dinner without a wait and a reasonably priced hotel, seemed like long shots.
My “wise” choice ends up in a village traffic jam. Young Hani teenagers, unaccustomed to the level of traffic cruising through their small village, are desperately trying to find a solution. “Move back, move back!” Cars stuck in the muddy roads ahead need to move through first!” they shout. Reversing, I move back a few meters, pop on the brakes, and slide open my phone to locate the closest available hotel. Prices have skyrocketed. Five-star hotels have quadrupled in price to over 5,000 yuan per night. Smaller hotels, usually within 200 yuan, are now hovering between 700-1000 yuan. Just as I find a reasonably priced hotel in a village up ahead, a young Hani teenager taps on my window. I can finally move forward.
Yuanyang’s prime travel season is from mid-November to April as water from the mountains is irrigated down. Slowly rice stalks will begin to peep above the water laying calmly atop each terrace. All the major scenic viewing platforms, from Laohuzui (老虎嘴) to Bada (坝达) Rice Terraces are packed with visitors. From sunrise to sunset, endless streams of tourists push their way through overcrowded platforms to capture the perfect shot of sunlight glistening across the glass-like terraces.
Luckily, I spot an affordable hotel in Sheng Village (胜村) just up ahead and decide to settle in for the night. As I unwind, I start planning the next day’s adventures—Azheke Village (one of more than eighty villages scattered around the terraces), the Bada Rice Terraces, and the Aichunlan Rice Terraces are all on my list.
Yuanyang’s New “Best Tourism Village”
Among the many tourist destination points scattered through the vast Yuanyang Rice Terraces, is Azheke Village. Recently designated as a UNESCO “Best Tourism Village,” Azheke has become an increasingly popular point for visitors exploring the Yuanyang Rice Terraces, especially if looking to learn more about the ancient Hani ethnic people’s way of life.
After winding up endless curvy roads and evading countless reckless motorcyclists trying to showcase their daredevil spirit on the dirt-paved roads, I finally arrive at Azheke Village. An entrance ticket to enter and explore the Azheke’s village culture, as well as its beautiful rice terraces costs 35 yuan. “Does this include the tickets to Bada and Duoyishu (多依树)?” I ask, referring to two of the other major sightseeing points nearby. “No, that’s a separate ticket bundle. This only gets you to Azheke Village, up ahead. Just walk 10 minutes and you’ll see it.”
Strolling in on narrow rock-paced paths, Azheke’s nearby surroundings immediately give off a mysterious, mythical type of vibe. Ancient trees along the stone path have wooden signs pinned atop, warning visitors not to trek into the village’s dense forests. Yuanyang’s ancient forests are also home to many tea trees, producing a special tea called Yunwu Tea (云雾茶).
Closer to the village entrance, the sounds of water gushing out become louder. Ten stone, dragon-like fountains appear with water pouring out into stone basins below, before flowing into the village. One of Yuanyang’s most remarkable achievements is their complex, water irrigation system that channels water from atop the Ailao Mountains to the different levels of rice terraces below.
Life in Azheke Village
In the Hani culture, women are the breadwinners of the family. Young men are nowhere to be seen. A few older men puffing away at their water bongs stare at me before adding a new batch of fresh tobacco. One woman is hanging newly dyed linen fabrics onto a thin, wire-line. Another carries a woven basket packed to the brim corn on her back. From weaving together new Hani attire to shucking corn, women are the ones bustling away, completing the necessary work in the village of over 400 residents.
Snapping away countless shots of Azheke’s endless traditional mushroom-style houses, I finally make my way to the small village square. A group of three women and two children are merrily chatting away while working. One woman is effortlessly grating corns cobs against a worn-down rubber shoe sole, slowly filling up a tin basin with corn kernels. I ask the woman if I can give it a go. She happily hands over her unique grater, gloves, and sack of corn.
Nearby, an older Hani lady with silver hair down to her waist, while tending to her grandson. She looked like someone with endless untold adventures. After chatting with her a bit, I head towards the back of the village to view its century-old rice terraces. Loads of tourists are walking within the rice terraces, soaking in the picturesque views, and trodding along the edges of the dirt paths. I walk up to a small hill and spot a small straw hut in the distance. Leaning against a rail, I think for a second how one could peacefully retire within these types of natural surroundings.
Aichunlan: The Mirror Terraces
Eager to beat the after-lunch tourist rush, I rush off to my car to beat the looming traffic jams. The Aichunlan Rice Terraces (爱春蓝梯田) are known for their stunning sunrises. Aichunlan’s crystal-clear blue sky reflecting on the floating water of the terraces below, is often shared on Chinese social media. Just a quick twenty-minute drive from Azheke Village, Aichunlan is a lesser-known destination when exploring the Yuanyang Rice Terraces. Having just parked alongside the dirt road, I hear the sound of laughter below. I walk down a set of narrow stairs tucked between newly constructed, five-story buildings towards the terraces.
Down in the rice terraces, tourists are happily taking part in catching rice terrace fish. Most are wearing gaiters or rubber boots as their eyes stare into the water, focused on any flickering movements. Unlike Bada, Laohuzui, and Duoyishu, the Aichunlan Rice Terraces are where tourists can experience a deeper connection with rice terrace life. Built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), Yuanyang’s rice terraces are still lovingly maintained by generations of Hani people, who seek to keep their traditional way of life.
Aichunlan is usually a morning hotspot visited by photographers who arrive early to capture sunrise reflections. Still under development, Aichunlan is a great spot to spend the afternoon and interact with Hani people. With the village of Aichunlan just past the terraces, visitors can develop an intimate connection with the Hani people.
Having eaten a small lunch, I make my way back up to one of the newly opened restaurants. Looking at the menu, I listen to the owner’s recommendations. “All our vegetables are freshly picked here in Yuanyang,” he says. He looks back to scan the restaurant entrance for more incoming customers. I select a few dishes consisting of mixed meat with local vegetables and bamboo shoots. Tourists are still in the rice fields catching fish and taking pictures against the magnificent backdrop. With my watch flashing five o’clock, I finish my healthy, veggie-filled dinner and prepare to catch a sunset at the Bada Rice Terraces.
Sunset at the Bada Rice Terraces
The Bada Rice Terraces (坝达梯田) are one of the must-visit, three major scenic spots when exploring the Yuanyang Rice Terraces. The 950 hectare terraces are where most flock to to catch Yuanyang’s most spectacular sunset shots. With an elevation ranging from 800 to 2000 meters, the Bada Rice Terraces are the perfect location to capture the fading sunlight. In the Hani language, the word Bada means “place closest to the sky,” a fitting name for the region’s beautiful rice terraces.
Most tourists visiting the Bada Rice Terraces enter through the front entrance, rushing to purchase tickets as the sun starts to disappear behind the Ailao Mountains. Hoping to skip the long wait times, I opt for a dirt path alongside the front parking lots and park my car up the hill. The dirt path behind, flanked by trees, as well as villagers selling grilled vegetables and handmade trinkets, isn’t much quieter. Though packed with tourists, it is less crammed than the front entrance. Making my way past the entrance, I climb up the wooden steps and nudge my way through the crowds of holiday traffic. The sounds of drones recording and cameras clicking begin to sound off. I had made it just in time to see the sky turn into a gorgeous blend of pink, orange, and red hues.
Photography: Anson Zong-Liscum
